Monday, September 26, 2016

Watch Review - Hublot King Power Unico All Black

48 mm, Hublot King Power Unico All Black watch actually measures well over 50 mm when measured across the crown or across the lugs. The watch is 17.6 mm thick. It embodies the brand’s concept of “fusion,” the combination of different and often unusual materials in the same watch, which Biver introduced with the launch of the Big Bang in 2005. The watch also illustrates Hublot’s fondness for avant-garde styling.

There are black composite resin insets on the case sides, while titanium is used for the crown and push-pieces. The case’s body and back are made of micro-blasted ceramic. The watch’s porthole-like appearance (hublot is French for “porthole”) is created by the case’s lateral protuberances and by the six H-shaped, black-PVD-coated titanium screws that fasten the bezel. Some connoisseurs are annoyed by the random orientation of the slits in these screws’ heads, but Biver calls this “authenticity.” After all, a screw must be tightened until it’s firmly seated, not merely until the slit in its head is tangent to an imagined circle.

The single-hinged folding clasp is shaped like the Hublot “H” logo. A double prong holds the longer part of the large rubber strap to the end of the clasp. The strap fits securely thanks to two prongs of unequal length. The clasp snaps smartly shut and opens when you press two lateral buttons. The lugs and the rubber strap are hallmarks of Hublot, but they’ve undergone a complete metamorphosis here. The strap can now be adjusted (it formerly had to be cut to the size of the wearer’s wrist). It’s also much thicker than the original strap and it’s smooth only on its inner surface. On the outside it’s deeply textured with a pattern recalling the tracks of an armored tank — a fitting choice for the muscular-looking King Power.

The strap, lugs and clasp collaborate to ensure that the King Power remains securely fastened on your wrist. Despite this watch’s size, it fits snugly, isn’t top- heavy, and doesn’t slide toward your hand. The operating buttons have non-slip rubber tops on titanium elements coated with black PVD. The winding crown is well protected but is nonetheless easy to grasp and pull out when you need to adjust the date or set the hands. Ribbed covers on the chronograph’s angular push-pieces ensure that the stopwatch functions can be activated quickly.

The movement, Caliber HUB 1240 Unico, made its debut in the King Power watch. With an impressive diameter of 48 mm, the watch made a very big splash in our editorial office. The piece we borrowed to review was a member of the 500-piece All Black limited series.

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WATCH REVIEW - Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire All Black

Since 2006, Hublot has taken quantum leaps, and this Big Bang Unico model fuses the two main pilasters of the brand by combining the muscular physiognomy of the Big Bang with Hublot’s manufacture Unico caliber – with sapphire cases. Sapphire is a material that has seduced watch brands with a certain avant-garde profile, with Cecil Purnell (yes, them) being the first to launch a watch all wrapped in sapphire, with a limited run of 5 pieces of their Mirage model. Richard Mille followed up quite a few years later and made a much bigger splash with their $1.65 million RM 056 sapphire-cased watch.

The hour and minute hands and the chronograph hand are all crafted in smoky black sapphire and get totally lost in the dark sea of components unless hit by direct light. Reading the time on this watch takes time. The date? Let's put it this way: it takes faith, and you just have to believe that it is out there somewhere. What’s more, the date disc is skeletonized producing a contrary effect to that desired. Instead of letting the light through and emphasizing the sensation of depth, the only thing it creates is a sensation of jumbled data and blurry hour indices.

The small seconds at 9 and the 60-minute counter at 3 o’clock get lost in the dark depths. This is not exactly the kind of chronograph you would want to use as a countdown timer for the 14 seconds of impulse necessary to get the lunar module back to Earth. Telling the time isn't easy, which might bug some people, but it has nothing to do with Hublot’s overall mission with this anniversary model. As Ricardo Guadalupe, Hublot CEO, stated: "In the original All Black concept, the watch is visible but the time display is invisible." Check.

Hublot has skeletonized the HUB 1242 Unico caliber, an automatic chronograph movement that beats at 4Hz and has a 72-hour power reserve. The caliber HUB 1242 looks great inside this Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire All Black watch and substitutes the refined finishes of high-end watchmaking for a more industrial and solid presence that certainly packs a punch. Conceived to surpass the Valjoux 7750, Hublot’s in-house chronograph comes with a flyback function and a column wheel, visible from the dial of the watch.

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Friday, September 9, 2016

Panerai Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days GMT

Panerai Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days GMT is available in two versions, which differ from each other in the intense brown (PAM00656) or metallic blue (PAM00670) of the dial and strap. The dials of both watches have the sandwich structure with a sunbrushed finish, and they are protected by a slightly convex sapphire glass crystal. The case is made of brush-finished titanium. Its design and dimensions of the case (47 mm) are those of the most classic Panerai watches with the iconic lever-operated bridge device which protects the winding crown from accidental shocks and at the same time ensures water-resistance of 10 bar (equivalent to a depth of about 100 metres). More replica Panerai Luminor 1950.

The P.2002/E movement, a hand-wound calibre developed and produced entirely in Panerai’s Manufacture in Neuchâtel has many useful functions: the GMT function, with a central hand for the second time zone and am/pm indicator in the small seconds dial at 9 o’clock; the date with indication of the month in the counter at 3 o’clock; a power reserve of over eight days, provided by the three springs barrels, with indication of the time remaining on the back; the mechanism which stops the balance wheel and sets the seconds hand to zero for accurately synchronising the watch with a reference time signal; and the device for changing the hour hand quickly without interfering with the running of the watch.

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Thursday, September 8, 2016

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 & Oyster Perpetual Lady Datejust 28

Since 1945, Datejust has been synonymous with elegance and precision when meter. Gold Datejust 41 Steel design a new generation and Lady Datejust 28, so that the aesthetic elements of the two watches reflect each other, complement each other. The combination of gold and stainless steel, the grade on the atmosphere of luxury, dial, fluorescent markers and hands on the men's 41 mm shows that even in a dark environment can be accurately observed time and full reliability, and its 28 female models mm dial with Roman numerals and elegant color against the background of each other. More replica Rolex Datejust.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 & Oyster Perpetual Lady Datejust 28


Movement Type: Automatic mechanical
Gender: Men's; Women
Case material: stainless steel / 18k gold (triangle grooved outer ring)
Strap Material: Stainless Steel / 18k gold (men: five rows of links / female models: three rows of links)
Case Diameter: Men: 41 mm / female models: 28 mm

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